SUMBAWA | INDONESIA
One of this few moments happened in a remote place of this beautiful planet. A place of raw beauty an strange feelings in your stomach, perfect waves and simple life. The waves were casting there spell on us, sometimes with such beauty our brain wasn’t able to digest it, we had to vomit it at dinner and chew it again and again. Everybody here was vomiting there overwhelmed minds on the plastic tables of the small Warungs until Bintang and body fatigue finished us.
In the mornings, we stumbled out of our small bungalows just a few meters away from the shore. Our eyes are lingering in disbelief over two amazing waves, a perfect A-Frame directly in front of the small village and the perfect left “Lakey Pipe”. Our heart beats are speeding up, still thinking this place is not for real, to surreal, to good to be true. We grab our boards and hit reality.
While paddling out to the breaks and watching the surfers already ripping this liquid beauties, we get even more excited and adrenalin is pumping in our systems. Adrenalin helps you not to think about the shallow sharp reef which gets dry by low tide and makes it insurable then. The set waves are just insane, and the locals are ripping these monsters so fluidly. I’m shaking my head in disbelief how far inside they take off and flying down the line and get covered by clear particles of the bathtub warm indian ocean.
The desire to get into one of these turquoise barrels is growing and everyone is waiting for their turn. There is no more feeling about time, you go in the water when the tide is right, you go out when the tide is to low or to high. Nature makes your decision easy here.
That was what we were looking for, undistracted surf, pictures burning down in your mind.